What Do I Need to Care for My First Horse? | Help & Advice | Houghton Country
At Houghton Country, we have hand-picked a tried and tested range of footwear for men, women and children, including jodhpur boots that are worn with chaps or gaiters, and long riding boots, all of which are suitable for all levels from beginner to competitive riding. Not all boots can be ridden in; boots designed especially for horse riding have a small heel to prevent your feet from slipping through the stirrups, and a smooth sole to allow the foot to come out of the stirrup easily in the event of a fall.
Jodhpur Boots vs Long Riding Boots: which horse riding boots should I get?
Jodhpur boots, also known as paddock boots or short riding boots, offer a closer contact between the rider’s leg and the horse, are generally hard wearing enough to withstand yard work as well as riding, and are quick to slip on and off. They are a more casual choice, with many people riding in these at home to save their smarter pair of tall boots for lessons or competing. Short boots can be worn with chaps or gaiters, an example of which is pictured below right, which protect your lower leg and create a look more akin to that of a tall boot. Short boots are an especially popular choice for children who are still growing, as when they outgrow their boots, the chaps may still fit, and vice versa. The closer contact feel may also help a learning rider to develop independent control of the lower leg and the sensitivity to give more subtle aids. Short boots and gaiters are also a good option for riders who have difficulty in finding the right size of long boot.
Jodhpurs boots with a zip, such as those pictured below left, are probably the most chosen type of short boot. They pull on and fasten with a zip at the back, front or side. They are preferred by riders with a high in-step as the zip makes them easier to put on and take off.
Pull-on jodhpur boots are popular with children and create a more traditional look. They provide a snug and secure feel across the whole of the foot, and so are preferred by those with a lower in-step.
Lace-up jodhpur boots are another option. Laces offer more adjustability and can help the boot to feel more secure across the top of the foot. If your lace-up boots also feature a zip, there is no need to undo the laces every time you take them off.
Waterproof short boots or insulated boots are especially useful if you are planning on using your boots for yard work, while steel toe caps are available for enhanced safety.
Long or tall riding boots are a more popular choice for competing, especially for adults, offering a smarter, more formal look. They provide support to the ankle and calf and more protection in the event of a fall, and reduce the risk of chafing from the stirrup leathers. Some riders prefer the sturdy feel of a long riding boot as this can help to stabilise the lower leg, while others prefer the less restrictive, closer contact feel of short boots. Black and brown leather riding boots are most popular, but navy and grey are increasingly seen in the dressage or showjumping competition ring. Leather is the traditional material for riding boots, but synthetic boots are also available, maintaining a leather-like look but requiring less care.
Field riding boots, pictured on the right of the picture above,are made of soft leather and feature laces at the ankle which offers a more supple feel and more flexibility for the rider to push their heels down and move their lower leg. Field boots are often chosen by showjumpers and eventers, or as a boot for day-to-day riding.
Dress riding boots, pictured on the left, do not have any lacing and are more rigid, usually with an off-set zip and a reinforced back panel. This style of boot is very smart, and is chosen primarily by dressage riders.
At Houghton Country, we have hand-picked a range of long riding boots for women, men and children.
The cost of different short and long riding boots can vary dramatically, and you may be wondering what the differences between less expensive and premium styles are. There are several technologies that may make one style of boot stand out from the rest: some boots are waterproof, some are insulated, some have a steel-toe cap, and in recent years much research has gone into developing footbed technology to enhance comfort and support. If you will only be wearing your boots for riding in summer months, you may not need them to be waterproof or insulated, whereas these features are likely to be more important to you if your boots will be used for yard work or the winter. Footbed shock absorption and stabilisation is especially important for comfort and support if you will be wearing your boots for prolonged periods.
Country boots with a stirrup friendly sole are a versatile choice of footwear, suitable for all country pursuits from dog walking to mucking out to horse riding. They are chosen by riders for their comfort and versatility, but do not offer the same close contact feel or support around the ankle and calf as a riding boot. Country boots tend to have a wider foot, and it is important to ensure there is at least 1.25cm clearance between your foot and the edge of the stirrup at either side, to avoid risk of getting stuck in the event of a fall.
How should riding boots fit?
While a short boot is relatively straight-forward to fit as your size will be dictated by your foot size, there are many factors that influence the fit of a tall riding boot: it is not just foot size that needs to be right, but height and calf width, too.
Short, regular and tall heights are available in some styles, while widths come in extra narrow, narrow, regular, wide and extra-wide, depending on brand. It is commonly believed you need to size up in riding boots, but this is not the case, as the leather will give and stretch, so they should feel snug at purchase.
If you choose to buy field boots, the laces around the lower part of the boot create some give and can provide a more secure feel around the ankle. With so many variations in sizing, it is a good idea to visit a reputable tack shop to be professionally fitted for your new boots. At our store in Northumberland, we have a huge range of short and long riding boots with friendly staff on hand to help you decide which boots are right for you.
What to expect from a tall riding boot fitting
If you have decided to come into store for a riding boot fitting it is advisable to wear what you will wear with the boots you are looking to purchase – breeches, jodhpurs or riding leggings, and riding socks – to ensure an accurate fitting.
Hopefully the above information will have given you an idea of whether you would prefer short or long riding boots. All of the stock displayed on our website is available in our store, so once you have browsed and found a few styles you like the look of, visiting our store to be professionally fitted will ensure you find the most comfortable boots possible.
What Do I Need to Care for My First Horse? - A Checklist of Essentials
Buying your first horse or pony is an exciting time! Once you have found your perfect equine partner you will be excited to get them home and start making memories with them. Before you collect them, you will need to make sure you have everything you need to care for a horse ready for their arrival, from rugs to protect them from the weather to grooming essentials, and our handy checklist is here to help make sure all bases are covered!
Grooming Kit
Grooming your horse regularly ensures their coat is kept healthy and clean and so helps keep your tack and rugs free of grease and mud. It also provides the opportunity to check over your horse thoroughly for any lumps or bumps and is a chance to spend some quiet time developing a bond with your horse. The traditional essentials of a grooming kit are a hoof pick, a hoof brush, a plastic curry comb, a rubber curry comb, a dandy brush, a body brush, a face brush, a mane & tail comb, a sponge or wash brush, a sweat scraper, hoof oil, hoof oil brush, shedding blade, and a pair of scissors. You can buy complete grooming kits or build your own. If you’d prefer to purchase your brushes separately, we stock a huge range of grooming brushes and tools, and a grooming bag or box is a tidy way to store them.
Picking your horse’s feet out daily is important to keep the foot healthy and check for any problems like signs of infection, bruising, twisted shoes or stones causing lameness. Alongside a hoof pick, some hoof care productsare essential. A frog spray keeps the foot healthy in wet conditions that breed bacteria, and would be applied after picking out the hooves with a hoof pick and brushing any remaining dirt or bedding away with a hoof brush. It is also beneficial to regularly apply hoof oil to keep your horse’s feet strong, well moisturised and in good condition.
The next step in grooming your horse would be to remove any dry mud or dirt. A plastic or rubber curry comb or a shorter firm bristled dandy brush and some elbow grease will lift most of this dirt, and a longer bristled brush can then be used to flick away the dirt and dust that has been brought to the surface.
A body brush, which has softer bristles, can then be used to add a smooth and glossy finish, and to clean more sensitive areas like the face and under the tummy. Remaining stains can be removed with a stain remover and a cloth, which can be especially helpful for greys or on show days! Sprays add further shine, perfect for show days.
A mane & tail brush is great for detangling, and mane & tail sprays will help condition and add shine to your horse’s hair.
Bathing your horse will not only remove stubborn stains but will lift excess grease from the coat. It is important not to bath a horse when it is too cold and to use warm water, unless the weather is very hot. Shampoos developed especially for your horse’s coat colour are available, while tea tree soothes and is anti-bacterial, and aloe vera is great for soothing and adding a glossy finish. pH neutral medicated shampoos are also available for use on dry, flaky, scabby or sensitive skin. A sponge or wash brush will help you to create a lather, while a sweat scraper is essential for removing excess water once you have rinsed all shampoo out. Conditioner or a detangling spray will make your horse’s wet tail easier to brush and reduce the risk of hair snapping. Rugging your horse in a fleece after their bath will help them to dry more quickly.
After exercise, it is advisable to sponge sweat off your horse. There are washes specially formulated for this; lavender soothes muscles, citronella helps to deter flies in the summer months, while mint cools the horse and revitalises the skin. These washes need to be diluted in a bucket of water but do not need to be rinsed off, making them quick and easy to use, but ensure you use a sweat scraper to remove excess water. If you are using citronella to deter flies, a fly spray or cream will be most effective, and this is an essential for the summer months.
Whether your horse has been bought for competing or as a pet, you are likely to want to keep him well-groomed and looking smart. Left to grow naturally, your horse’s mane will become longer and without careful care may look unruly, so you may want to trim, pull or hog his mane. A solo comb is handy for thinning the mane without pulling hair out, or a mane can be pulled traditionally by someone experienced using a small aluminium comb. Hogging is done with clippers. All horses also grow some feather around their fetlocks, with some breeds growing more than others. With some native breeds it is desirable to keep this hair, but some riders who own warmer-blooded horses trim these for a neater appearance, which can be done with trimmers or scissors and a comb by someone experienced. In the winter months, your horse will grow a thicker coat to protect him from the cold, but if he is in work, this thick coat will make him sweat. Clippers can be used to take off some or most of this hair, and there are many grooms who offer this service if you are not comfortable clipping yourself.
First Aid
Some horses love getting into trouble, and unfortunately it is inevitable that a time will come where your horse needs some medical attention. When your horse arrives home for the first time, it is important to register with a reputable local equine vet practice. We would always advise contacting your vet in the first instance if your horse has any injuries, illness or a new symptom you are unsure of. There are some first aid essentials, though, that it is sensible to keep on your yard. These will probably be most useful once your horse has been seen by a vet who will have explained how to deal with the condition yourself going forwards. A digital thermometer is essential as taking your horse’s temperature can be helpful in diagnosing problems such as infections or colic. A surgical scrub or wound powder are useful to have to hand as they help prevent infection in minor cuts and grazes, and applying a layer of antibacterial gel creates a clean waterproof barrier between the skin and wet or muddy conditions. Your vet will need to dress a deeper wound, and in this instance you may want to stock up on gamgee and vet wrap if your vet directs you to change the dressing yourself. Vet wrap is always handy, especially for treating abscesses in the hoof, with a poultice underneath, and bandage tape and/or a poultice boot would help keep this all in place. Other common conditions you can begin to treat at home include mud fever, mites, and itchy skin. Complete first aid kits can be purchased with all the essentials in one handy bag.
Some horse first aid essentials.
Tack
Your new horse may come with some of his things, but if not, there are several pieces of equipment he will need. You will need a headcollar and lead rope to be able to handle him. Pony size is the equivalent of a small, likely fitting ponies up to 14hh, while cob is a medium likely to fit from 14hh to a petite 16.1hh, and full is a large, fitting most horses from 16.2hh or chunkier types from 15.2hh. For larger breeds like Clydesdales and Drafts, an extra full may be best.
To ride your horse, you will need a saddle. The fit of the saddle is very important and can lead to back pain and injury for your horse if it is not correct, so we would advise contacting a local saddle fitter to organise getting one professionally fitted. An approved Master Saddler can be found here. Saddles are available in a Jump, Dressage, and General Purpose cut, and for beginners, a GP is usually a sensible choice. To use your saddle, you will need a saddlecloth to protect your horse's back and wick away sweat, stirrup leathers and irons and a girth. You will also need a bridle, and may find our Noseband Guide and Bitting Guide helpful in selecting the right one, along with a pair of reins. Accessories like fly veils and breastplates and martingales are optional. Investing in lessons with your new horse is a good idea to develop your ridden partnership, and we would recommend discussing whether your horse needs any of these accessories with your instructor or coach.
Boots or bandages are important to protect your horse’s legs. For flatwork, brushing boots offer support and can be worn on all 4 legs, or bandages with pads underneath do the same job. It is advised to use bandages with pads only if you are very experienced in bandaging horse's legs, as if these are fastened too tightly they can cause significant damage. For showjumping, tendon & fetlock boots offer the most suitable protection, while brushing boots would be used for cross-country activities or hacking. Over reach boots protect the heels of the front feet from strikes from the hind feet and reduce the risk of a shoe being pulled. Travel boots offer padding from the knee or hock down to the foot, reducing risk of injury while travelling.
To care for your leatherwork, keeping it supple, smart-looking and helping it to last many years, there are a number of cleaning and conditioning products available.
With your horse kitted out, you will want to make sure you have the necessary equipment for yourself to be able to enjoy your time together safely, comfortably and stylishly. We’re sure you’ve already made a start on your own equestrian wardrobe, but you may find our What to Wear for Horse Riding: A Beginner’s Guide a good starting point.
Rugs
Your horse will need different types and weights of rug depending on what he is doing, the weather, his age and whether he is clipped, and he will soon have his very own full wardrobe. If he is not coming to you with any of his existing rugs, you will want to ensure you have them ready for him to use before the weather changes. Generally, he will need a lightweight, mediumweight and heavyweight turnout rug and stable rug if he is stabled, a fleece or cooler, and a fly sheet. Our Horse Rugging Guide will explain why your horse needs each rug and what type may suit. If he suffers from sweet itch, a fly rug will not keep the midges away, and a sweet itch rug will be necessary to help keep this condition at bay. Fly masks and fly boots are helpful in the summer months, as is a nose net and fly veil if your horse is sensitive to pollen and flies. In the colder months, an exercise or quarter sheet helps keep your horse warm and dry, and this is especially important if you clip him.
From left to right - a horse wearing a turnout rug, a stable rug and a fly rug.
Stable Equipment
Haynets
Hay or haylage will be the main part of your horse’s diet in lieu of grass, especially in winter months or if they do not spend much time in the field. If you’re wondering what the difference between hay and haylage is, you may find this guide from feed manufacturer Dengie useful. Simply put, hay has been cut and left to dry, meaning it has lower nutritional value and is suitable for horses or ponies who do not need extra nutrients or energy, while haylage is richer and contains more moisture. Dusty hay can be soaked for those with respiratory issues who cannot eat haylage.
If you choose to feed hay, your horse or pony will need to eat approximately 2.5% of their bodyweight in hay per day. A weigh tape can give you an idea of your horse’s weight, but as a guide, a medium-build 14.2hh pony is likely to be around 450kg, while a medium-build 16.2hh sports horse is likely to be around 550-600kg, and heavier breeds can weigh around the 750-800kg mark. A 500kg horse or pony would therefore require roughly 12.5kg of hay per day. Because haylage has a higher water content it is heavier, and so more than 12.5kg would need to be fed.
Forage including hay or haylage can be fed from the floor, from a bar or box, or from haynets. Feeding from the floor or a bar can be more natural for the horse, as he will stretch downwards while eating, which is better for his muscular, skeletal and respiratory system, but this method can be wasteful and allows the horse to finish the forage he has been given quite quickly. Horses can go no more than 4 hours without something in their stomach, or the risk of ulcers and colic increases, so staggering their intake of forage is important. Haynets are a good way of achieving this, as the holes prevent the horse from taking too much hay at a time. 5cm holes are standard, but extra small holed nets are available as haynets for greedy horses that help their forage to last longer. Nets with 10cm holes are also available, which is suited to horses that do not finish their forage as quickly. An extra large net will hold more hay or haylage at a time, and these are also available with extra small holes, or medium sized nets will hold about 6.5kg. Even if you plan to feed forage from the floor, a couple of haynets are essential to have on hand for keeping your horse happy while tied up or travelling.
A Water Bucket
Your horse will need constant access to fresh water, so a water bucket is essential. Some stables have automatic drinkers, but providing a bucket of fresh water is sensible in case your horse doesn’t know how to use a drinker, or there is a problem with it. How much water your horse is likely to drink per day will depend on his size, diet, the weather and how much exercise he has done, but typically you can expect an average horse to need up to 15 gallons a day. Flexible plastic buckets are a very popular choice. It is important to ensure it is big enough to fill with more water than your horse will need in the period in which you are leaving him -- a small bucket will not hold enough. Remember the water must be fresh, so this bucket will need emptying, cleaning and refilling with fresh water daily.
Feed Buckets
If your horse is in work or needs supplements or medication, you will need to feed hard feed in addition to forage, and your horse will need a suitable bucket to eat this from. A manger will hook over a stable door or field gate and prevents waste as your horse cannot kick the manger over. For horses that do not kick their feed over, a bucket would suffice. A tyre skip is a popular choice; this bucket is hard-wearing and is likely to last your horse some years. Another option if you want to match the colour of your feed bucket to your stable equipment is a small, shallow flexible plastic bucket. If you are making feeds up in advance for a friend to put in, a lid or cover will keep your feed protected and fresh. A feed scoop is essential, and a feed stirrer will allow you to easily mix the different types of feed your horse might need as well as any supplements or medication. Like washing your own dishes, it is important to keep these buckets and the stirrer clean, and a bucket brush will help you to give these buckets and your water bucket a good scrub. We also stock a large variety of horse feed including chaff, mixes and mashes, and we would advise keeping your horse on a similar feed to what he is currently accustomed or transitioning him gradually from his existing feed onto his new one, to avoid digestive upset.
Feed Bin
To store your feed, you will need a bin large enough to hold at least a bag of feed. An average size feed bin will hold 100 litres, which is the equivalent of a couple of 20kg bags of cereal or mix, or almost a whole 15kg bag of chaff.
Mucking Out Tools
A wheelbarrow, broom and shovel are all must-haves. If your horse will be bedded on shavings, wood pellets or chopped straw, a shavings fork will help you muck out efficiently, while a straw bed is most easily mucked out with a wider-pronged fork or pitch fork. For poo picking your horse’s turnout area, a scoop & rake is handy.
If your stable is not already kitted out with tie up rings, a bolt, a rug rail, saddle rack, and bridle hook, you may wish to browse our range of stable accessories.
We wish you years of fun and success with your new equine partner!
How to measure for a tall riding boot
Before you come for your boot fitting, you may want to take some measurements so you have a starting point of what size you may need. As we have discussed, there is no need to size up, so your usual foot size will likely be best. To measure your calf height and width accurately, wear the jodhpurs, breeches or riding leggings you will be wearing most of the time, along with riding socks. It will be helpful to have a friend to help take measurements.
To measure the height you need, stand barefoot with a slight bend in your knee, asking your friend to measure from the bottom of your heel to the bend in your knee as per the diagram below, where A is the measurement you are taking.
To measure calf width, which is B in the diagram below, ask your friend to wrap the tape measure around the widest point of your calf.
You can then match up your measurements against the size guide for the boots you may be interested in.
You may find that after looking at the boots in person, you prefer a different style from the one that you had in mind. Our sales assistants are fully trained in boot fittings and will be more than happy to advise on the differences in technology between brand and style. Once you have selected a few boots that you like the look of, we can help with trying these on and fitting them.
How tall should my riding boots be?
As leather wears in, it becomes softer and more supple, causing a slight drop in height – you can expect boots to drop up to 2cm in height. When your boots are brand new, it would be best for the back of them to be right up to the bend in your knee when you assume a riding position. Although this can be a little uncomfortable in the back of your knees while you break your boots in, once they are worn in and have dropped a little, they will be the perfect height – about 2 fingers below the bend in your knee. Until they are worn in, heel raisers can be worn to lift your leg and reduce pinching in the back of your knees. Heel raisers slide into the bottom of your boots like insoles and can be removed when your boots have adequately dropped. It is important to be mindful of the fact that your boots will drop, but if you buy your boots too tall in the first instance, they will hurt the backs of your knees even after dropping. There is no harm done if they are too short as long as they do not catch on the flap of the saddle, but they will look less smart than if they were the right height.
When you are sure you have found the right boots for you, to break in new riding boots, we recommend wearing them in the house, applying lots of leather conditioner, stretching the calf with boot trees or newspaper, and of course riding in them as much as possible!
How tight should be my riding boots be?
Riding boots should be tight around your calf, and remember leather stretches with wear. Your new riding boots should therefore fit quite snugly to begin with, without causing discomfort. There should not be any gaps between your leg and the boot from your ankle up to the back of your knee; the boot should follow the curve of your calf. If there are gaps, once the boot is worn in, it will sag, which may look unsightly and feel uncomfortable, and they will not offer the stability that riders look for from a long boot. Width varies from manufacturer to manufacturer; riding boots with a wide calf are available, as well as those with a narrower or extra-wide fit.
Short boots are a little more straightforward. Short boots and chaps or gaiters do not drop in the same way that a leather tall boot would, so there is no need to accommodate for the extra 2cm, although the back of a leather gaiter will soften.
How do I care for my riding boots?
Once you have chosen your perfect pair of new boots, you will want to take good care of them to ensure they last you for years to come. If you have invested in tall leather riding boots, it is advisable to keep them for riding, swapping into wellies or country boots for yard duties. To keep leather boots nice, it is important to clean and condition them regularly with our range of leather care. Synthetic boots can be wiped over with water and a mild detergent, while leather requires more care. Leather riding boots and gaiters should be cleaned with plain water and a damp sponge or cloth. When dry, a leather polish can be used to get your boots looking as good as new; black is for black smooth leather, while neutral can be used on brown. Finally, you will want to condition your smooth leather. A balsam or conditioning spray will help keep your leather happy and supple. If your boots have suede or nubuck on them, a suede protector is best. When you’re not wearing your boots, a pair of boot trees will help them to keep their shape and prevent sagging or creasing to the leather around the ankle. A boot bag is especially handy for transporting your boots, but also makes a great place to store them, protecting them from dust and moisture. The right riding socks will complement the fit of the boot, keeping you comfortable and your lower leg secure.
The best place to start your search for new riding boots is a shop with a great range of boots and knowledgeable staff on hand. Houghton Country has riding boots of all types in a broad range of sizes for you to browse online and in store.
Let's stay in touch
Be the first to receive information on new products, exclusive offers and the latest releases
